The loyal defense that protected the ancient and secures the present

Though a newly-developed town nestled with young families and dynamic residence, Tung Chung has a long history bearing the witness to crucial chapters of battles. Tung Chung Fort, now a government declared monument, is trusted to be able to whisper the long history.

Following the clear direction you’ll easily lead yourself to Tung Chung Fort.

On a fine sunny day, after a photo-shooting job in MONGKOK, I grabbed my bag (of course with my camera, a bottle of water, a pair of specs and a whole lot of anticipation in learning the most delicate history of this new-meets-old town), and started my journey from MONGKOK hopping on airport bus no. E21A. I always love travelling by bus taking into account the enjoyment of the open view, this time especially when the bus was fleet across the magnificent Tsing Ma Bridge. The ride took approximately 45 minutes and finally brought me to the bus terminus at Yat Tung Estate – the beginning of the onward walking journey.

Footbridge from Yat Tung Estate to Tung Chung Fort

I made my slothful walk around the contour of the estate for around 15 minutes and with a few asking for assistance, I came to the other end of the estate and was about to walk on the footbridge directing me to Tung Chung Fort.

Walk across the main gate you’ll be brought through the tunnel of time.

Following the indication, down the footbridge to my left, I saw the Auxiliary Medical Service Tung Chung Office - the cue to the Fort where its gate is literally next to it. The fort is surrounded by villages of Sheung Ling Pei and Ha Ling Pei (下嶺皮村, remember the Thai Melody that i recommended two weeks before?) :)

The main gate is just like a time machine door, bring us back to ancient time

I felt strange that on the front gate the inscriptions also include Public Primary School of Tung Chung and Tung Chung Rural Committee on two sides, and later I found these two establishments are located on the same yard.

Following a short path, it stands the main gate stating (when you gave a closer look) the fort was built in the twelfth year of Daoguang reign. Across the gate with my head up, I saw the main wall and six old muzzle-loading cannons each erecting on a cemented base with enclosures made of granite blocks. Walking a few stairs up on the side, I’ve moved myself closer to the cannons and descriptions were found on four cannons stating they are casted in the Qing Dynasty, which they are now protected by the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance.

The main wall is constructed with well-dressed granite blocks with three acrhed gateways on the east, west and north.

The stairs on the sides of the main wall bringing you closer back time.

The guard house contributed to the protection and security of the land.

Standing up the fort Yat Tung Estate is under your feet.

The Tung Chung Fort and Yat Tung Estate – a good contrast of ancient and modern.

Down the stairs again, lying on the back of the cannon, found the office of Tung Chung Rural Committee. It's quite interesting that the office is inside one of the old huts and right next to it situates an Antiquities and Monuments Office of Tung Chung Fort, Lautau Island, introducing the history of Tung Chung in general and showcasing relics of the Tung Chung villagers.

The office of Tung Chung Rural Committee is sheltered in an old hut facing the mail wall.

There are a number of exhibits displayed in the Monuments Office whispering the long history of Tung Chung.

The only security guard of the monuments office, who was found “taking a rest” when I walked in, later became the story-telling man and dwelt on the details of each exhibit. I stayed there for half an hour, which I didn’t expect in the first place due to the small area I had enjoyed very much reading the history of Tung Chung, which was once developed into an important military stronghold during the Qing Dynasty to drive out the pirates and troops were sent to stand guards at the forts.

Behind these huts I continue to walk and there stands the vacant Public Primary School of Tung Chung. Also told by the security man, the school has already been deserted due to insufficient number of enrolling students.

The Public Primary School of Tung Chung is now vacant due to insufficient number of enrolling students.

On the way back, after the main gate to my left I couldn’t wait to walk close to this local store to get a thirst quenching drink. The store is operated by an old couple villagers with the husband taking order while the wife being the food maker. Their Hong Kong style milk tea (HK$12) was surprisingly tasty! Guess there is something about the milk they use.. A few steps away found a Pakistan-Indian restaurant Curry Corner (No.21 Ha Ling Pei. Tel: 2109 1927) yet which is closed in the afternoon time when I left.

I took a break at a village store and had to give a thumb-up to their delicious milk tea.

I had to give a thumb-up to their delicious milk tea

Walking back to Yat Tung Estate, I felt myself strolling back from the past to present seeing the contrast of the high rise residential buildings and the single-storey old huts. Though the cannons were once built to fight against the pirates and invaders, they are still standing there to guarding the history of Tung Chung. Living across time, the mission is still the same.

Shooting birds! Scaring the crabs out of their wetland holes!

In this humid time of spring, two townie friends of mine (Z and JJ) fancied a relaxing outing to stretch their stiff bodies after the lazy winter and maybe, if lucky, take some nice pictures of the rare, dying nature of HK. I suggested them the Tung Chung -Tai O hiking trail, but as your typical townie friends, they preferred something, in their words, “less hardcore” J So we took a stroll to the Tung Chung mangroves instead. And I never would have thought it would be so “full of wonders” to them.

we just stop at the mangrove for today's route.

It’s an easy route of, at most, an hour (we were taking it real slow) from the MTR station. But if you are ultra lazy, there are buses (37,38, S52, S64) at the MTR station that take you to Yat Tung Estate so you can join in halfway.

The way up to the pavilion was rather scenic: airport across the sea, cable cars moving overhead and the new town area on the other side. Definitely worth the walk.

While on the way down, there were a small battery ruin and a caged lime kiln dated to the Tang Dynasty. To my friends’ amusement, there were a lot of dragonflies and a few butterflies. Z: I saw a butterfly pretending to be a crunchy, fallen leaf!

Continue down the slope came Ma Wan Chung Village, a tiny, serene, half-emptied and biohazard-esque fishing village where you can grab some drinks and snacks (even Chinese bean tea cake!)

outlook of Ma Wan Chung Village
Z: I am glad to be fully prepared for zombie attack, thanks to Biohazards

After a few dingy old diners, the alleyway opened up and we found ourselves facing two bridges: One new and safe. Another made of scrap wood and old doors (!?) that looked like it may collapse any second. A black dog was chilling on the dodgy one, looking proud. I had an impression that it was daring us to attempt the doubtful bridge.

The Grim or the Loyal Guard?

Of course, we weren’t stupid enough to risk our lives (and precious cameras) crossing that old bridge. Just when we were half way on the safe cement bridge, a little egret flew over us and landed on the low tide fresh water stream under the bridges.

SHOOT!! We caused quite a scene “awwww-ing and “wow-ing” over every single move it made.

Knowing the mangrove must be near, my dear townie friends (finally) decided to speed through the village to Yat Tung Estate. It’s quite a special view to have new buildings and messy rural path separated by a never-ending wire fence.

JJ:It’s like we were in poor Eastern Germany looking at the other, fast-growing side of the Berlin Wall. (Well, indeed.)

I tried to identify the surrounding plants: bauhinia, hibiscus, morning glory, camellia…and whenever we saw fruiting papaya or banana trees, my Farmville-addicted friends would simply replied “Havest! or Rotten!”
1/3 of the path was covered with interesting plants.

Ten minutes into our “Intro to Common Plants in Hong Kong” walk, we finally saw Hau Wong Temple sitting solemnly on the right. In front of the temple, beyond another picnic-friendly grassland, was the mangroves! Since the tide was still low, we took our time and checked out the 245 year-old temple dedicated to a celebrated loyal officer in the Song Dynasty. Apart from the antique broze bell inside the monument, take a closer look at the mini figures on the roof. The 7th in line is in western suit! Talk about east meets west! You may also like to join the 5-day (and night!) birthday celebration of Hau Wong from16-20 August (Chinese calendar)

Hau Wong Temple. We were gutted to find out all free Chinese new year lucky charms were given away.

Tung Chung Mangrove: marks the end of Tung Chung stream and the beginning of the open sea.

OK! It’s time to shoot some birds!
Bang! Bang! Bang!




You may wanna try these…
1. collect clams. Not sure if they taste good. But we saw quite a few families doing that.
2. pretend to be giants among the short mangrove “forrest” and take perspective illusion pictures.

miniature lake and forrest!

3. stand VERY still until the cowardly fiddler crabs think you are inanimate and come out of their holes, business as usual. Then move suddenly. They will freak out and rush back in their crab holes frantically. The little game is fun to watch and never gets boring. But try to restrain yourself from disturbing their lives too much :P

4.catch a jumping fish


5. if you are lucky like us, you may witness an epic staredown between a hawk and an egret. Relax. They eat fish.


6. After the erosive actions in river, most boulders there are white, round and of various size. Pile them up and made a rockman.

7. This is a big tree, uprooted and washed down to the coast. I don’t know why but everyone walks all the way out just to have a closer look.

Hope that everyone can enjoy the mangrove's fun like us!